Your Local Lawn and Tree Care Professionals Since 1978

Comprehensive Lawn Care From Super Green Lawn Service


Round One - Early Spring

We will treat your lawn with a fertilizer and pre-emergent crabgrass control. Complete 100% control of crabgrass can only be achieved by having a thick dense turf of improved grass, in conjunction with a pre-emergent crabgrass control.

Preventative Grub Control

Preventative grub/billbug control will be applied from late April through June for those customers choosing this optional service. It may be applied near, or at the same time as one of your regular applications. We highly recommend this preventative control for all lawns.

Round Two - Late Spring

Fertilizer will be applied, along with broadleaf weed control. An insecticide will be applied, if needed, to control surface feeding insects such as chinch bugs and sod webworm.

Round Three - Summer

We will apply fertilizer, check for turf damaging insects, and apply a control for chinch bugs or sod webworm, as needed.

Round Four - Early Fall

We will apply a fertilizer and a weed control for those newly germinated weeds and existing, difficult to control weeds, and a surface insect control as needed.

Round Five - Winterize

This winterizer fertilizer promotes deep root growth, longer greening into the fall, and quicker spring greenup, without stimulating additional fall top growth.


We recommend that we aerate most lawns at least once a year. Please ask for a price quote and have us schedule this valuable service.

*We are a continuing service and will continue to maintain your lawn season after season and year after year, unless you request us to stop the service.

Note: Broadleaf weed control, crabgrass control and surface insect control are applied as required, weather permitting.
No guarantee or free service calls with less than our total program!

Chinch Bugs

The hairy chinch bug is the primary pest of northeastern turfgrasses while the common chinch bug is more commonly found in the northern Plains States and transition turf zones. Hairy chinch bug adults are approximately 1/8 inch long and 3/64 inch wide. The head, pronotum and abdomen are gray-black in color and covered with fine hairs. The wings are white with a black spot located in the middle front edge. There are five nymphal instars, each of which change considerably in color and markings. The first instar has a bright orange abdomen with a cream colored band, brown head and thorax and is about 1/32 inch long. Second through fourth instars continue to have this general color pattern except that the orange color on the abdomen gradually changes to a purple-gray with two black spots. The fourth instar increases to more than 3/32 inch. In the fifth instar the wing pads are easily visible and the general color is black.

Damage and Diagnosis

Chinch bugs generally occur in scattered patches rather than being evenly distributed over the turf. Sunny areas are most heavily infested with populations sometimes reaching 200 to 300 per square foot. Plant injury occurs as a result of the insect sucking fluids from the plant and at the same time injecting salivary fluids into the plant. The presence of the salivary fluid disrupts the water-conducting system of the plant, causing it to wilt, turn yellow, then brown and die. Injury is particularly severe when heavy infestations occur in turf that is dormant from moisture stress. Such dry conditions are particularly conductive to chinch bug growth and population development. Visual scanning of sidewalks and driveways adjacent to infested turf on hot afternoons often reveals adults running across the pavement.

Several techniques work for detecting or monitoring chinch bug populations in turf. The simplest method is the "hands and knees" method. Use your thumbs and fingers to pull back grass stems to expose the crowns, thatch and chinch bugs adults and nymphs that hide at the base of the plants.

Our preventative grub control gives chinch bug "suppression," if you have elected to recieve this optional application. We also inspect you lawn for chinch bugs when we make our regular applications and if you are on our full program we apply a chinch bug control at no additional charge, if needed. If you are not on our full program and need chinch bug control, there is no additional charge.

Ref. - Destructive Turf Insects, Second Edtion
Harry D. Niemczyk, Ph.D., and David J. Shetlar, Ph.D.

Call us about our free estimates!
(330) 856-1756
Monday - Friday 8:30 - 4:30


Grubs are the larva of many different species of beetles. Fully grown adults are 1/2 to 3/4 inches long, white to grayish, with brown heads and six distinct legs. They usuallly assume a C-shaped position in the soil. Severe infestations feeding in the soil-thatch interface of turf can destroy most of the roots, causing the turf to turn brown and die. Most grub damage, in our area occurs between mid August and late October to early November. Birds, raccoons, and skunks actively feed on grubs and in the process tear up the turf as they search for them. The sure way to detect white grubs is to cut into the turf in several locations and examine the root zone and first three inches of soil carefully. Turf can support some grub populations without sustaining damage. The goal of grub control is to keep grubs below damaging levels. NO grub control will ever obtain 100% control, and 100% control is not needed to prevent grub damage to lawns.

*We guarantee grub control, (below damaging levels), with our preventative grub control application. If grubs are found in damaging numbers after application of our preventative grub control, we will re-treat with a curative grub control at no additional charge. We recommend all lawns be treated with our preventative grub control. There are two programs of grub control:

1. Preventative - We apply our preventative grub control sometime between late April and early June. When we apply our preventative grub control at this time of year, we also get control of bluegrass billbug larvae (a frequent cause of lawn damage), and obtain suppression of chinch bugs. We apply our preventative grub control at the highest label rate which allows it to stay in the soil until grubs hatch in August, and we still obtain excellent grub control. Some lawn care companies apply their preventative grub control, at lower rates, later in the year and still achieve good grub control, but do not get control of the bluegrass billbug larvae.

2. Curative - If a customer has not elected to receive our preventative grub control and we notify them of grub populations in damaging numbers, we can apply our curative grub control to reduce the grub population below damaging numbers. Curative grub control must be watered in after application or it will not work. It is the customers obligation to make sure that enough water, (approximately 1 inch per lawn area), is applied to move the grub control from the surface, down to where the grubs are feeding. Watering should begin immediately after the curative grub control is applied. We do not guarantee our curative grub control, as we can not control the watering. However, if watered properly, it will work.

3. Grub contols applied to lawns will not control adult beetles feeding on trees and shrubs, since the adult beetles can fly from neighboring areas.

4. Controlling grubs in your lawn will not control Moles. The favorite food of moles is earthworms, not grubs. The only way to control moles is through the use of traps, which can be purchased at local garden centers or hardware stores.

5. Please call our office for pricing or addiional questions about grub control.

Ref. - Destructive Turf Insects, Second Edtion
Harry D. Niemczyk, Ph.D., and David J. Shetlar, Ph.D.

Call us about our free estimates!
(330) 856-1756
Monday - Friday 8:30 - 4:30

Lawn Mowing

Mowing is one of the most important cultural practices performed in lawn maintenance. Regardless of whether the lawn is fertilized, irrigated or receives applications of control products, proper mowing practices are essential if a high quality lawn is to develop. Properly mowed lawns will have fewer weed populations, better moisture stress tolerance and generally better quality than lawns not properly mowed.

Mowing Height

Is probably the most important parameter of mowing. Turfgrasses, like other plants, must manufacture sugars through photosynthesis in the leaves if they are collectively to develop into a high quality lawn. Turfgrasses mowed at low heights have limited leaf area to sustain photosynthesis rates necessary to maintain good plant vigor. In addition to leaf area, a direct relationship exists between the height of the turfgrass and the depth and total mass of the root system. Research with Kentucky bluegrass has shown that root growth was more than twice as great when the grass was mowed at a 2.0 inch height verses a 0.75 inch height. In general, shallow, weak root systems are most apparent during sumer stress periods. When soil moisture becomes limiting, the closely mowed lawns usually exhibit stress first and the loss of turfgrass plants is more likely. Higher mowing heights during the summer period will keep soil temperatures cooler, preserve soil moisture and help maintain turfgrass quality. We recommend lawns be mowed at the 3 inch to 3 1/2 inch height at all times. Mowing height can play an important role in prevention of lawn weed establishment. Research has shown that higher mowing heights result in fewer weeds per unit area. This is due to higher grass providing more shading and competition to the weed seedlings during the initial establishment phases.

Mowing Frequency

The lawn should be mowed frequently enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade lengh is removed during any one mowing. For example, if Kentucky bluegrass is normally mowed at 3 inches, the height should not be allowed to grow beyond 4 inches before it is mowed back to 3 inches. During periods of active turfgrass growth, many lawns will require mowing more than once per week if this recommendation is to be followed. Proper mowing frequency is a key to successful implementation of the "Don't Bag It" clipping return program. If extended wet periods prevent timely mowing and the turgrass gets excessively tall, move the mower height adjustment to the highest setting and mow the lawn. Once the clippings dry, lower the height adjustment to the desired height and then mow the lawn a second time in a different direction. This approach is termed "Double Cutting."

Mowing Directions

The direction of mowing should be altered every one to two mowings. Mowing at right angles (90 degrees) to the previous direction will help prevent the grass from repeatedly being pushed in one direction and laying over, an important consideration at high mowing heights.

Mow When Dry

Turf should be mowed when it is dry. Wet grass is more difficult to cut and has the tendency to clog under rotary mowers. Mowing should not, however, be delayed for long periods of time because the grass is wet.

Fall Mowing Practices

During the Fall period, mowing should continue as long as the turfgrass is actively growing. We recommend you do not lower mowing height during the Fall period.

Clipping Return

Turfgrass clippings contain measurable amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Research has shown that when clippings are removed, 20 to 25 percent more fertilizer was necessary to maintain comparable color and quality as areas where clippings were returned. Contrary to popular belief, turfgrass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation if proper mowing practices are followed.

Ref. - Destructive Turf Insects, Second Edtion
Harry D. Niemczyk, Ph.D., and David J. Shetlar, Ph.D.

Call us about our free estimates!
(330) 856-1756
Monday - Friday 8:30 - 4:30

Tree & Shrub Care

  • Fertilization
  • Insect Control
  • Disease Control
  • General Health

Call us about our free estimates!
(330) 856-1756
Monday - Friday 8:30 - 4:30